A good place to start in Morocco is Marrakech. It is the most European of the Morocco cities.
Introduction
Arrival in this city has become much more complicated. When you land in the very nice new airport, you have a nasty shock. The immigration has to be among the slowest that I have ever seen anywhere in the world. It is unable to cope with the volume of flights arriving. It is possible to pay for a fast track, which makes things faster. However, on my last visit, even in fast track we still had to wait 45 minutes to get through immigration. I was in a group of 67 people, imagine what it was like for those who arrived just after us! The best thing to do is that when you disembark, don’t lose time and go fast to the immigration.
Most countries don’t need a visa for Morocco, but check before you travel if you need one.
From the Airport to the city is not far. But before you take a taxi agree the price of the ride with the driver. Otherwise he will charge a fortune for the trip and you will have a heated discussion when you arrive at your destination. Also, when you take a taxi in the city agree the fare before you get in the taxi. They try to charge much higher prices to tourists.
Taxis are a nightmare when they don’t have a taximeter as in Istanbul, Athens or Beijing, etc. In most cities I refuse to get in a taxi unless he has a taximeter and is prepared to use it. Unfortunately, many taxi drivers across the world are very dishonest. If you are staying in a hotel ask the concierge to call a taxi with taximeter and to tell them where you go. Be prepared also with smaller denomination notes. Often they do not have change. Anywhere in the world beware when you take a taxi. In my opinion, Istanbul is the worst!
In Marrakech there is a sort of taxi pooling system, which means they cost less. However, they will stop and pick up other passengers on the way, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself sharing the taxi with a complete stranger.
Horse drawn carriages are available for hire in several places of the city, especially in the Jamaa El Fna square that is the center of the social life of the city. It is the heart of the old fortified city, the heart of the Medina. You can also find them near the Yves Saint Laurent museum. Years ago during a visit to Marrakech with my friends, Bobby, Belen and Maria, we were standing in the Jemaa El Fna square waiting for a taxi during the rush hour to return to our Riad full of shopping bags, after hours in the souk. Since we could not find a taxi Maria stopped a carriage and jumped on! Our riad was in the middle of the Medina, so we started passing through the very narrow streets of a market with food shops on both sides. The carriage was passing in the middle, scattering stalls of fruit and vegetables as we passed through! The vendors where furious (carriages don’t pass there normally!). Maria must had paid him a lot to takes us to our hotel. On top of this, we had to stop some minutes to past an obstacle and the horse started eating some vegetables from one of the vendors sitting on the floor. The horse was very happy, the man less so and started shouting at us furiously. Ja…ja…it was like a comic movie!
During the evening the Jamaa El Fna square is transformed into a very vibrant place, with lots of restaurants and food vendors, especially where they make very nice fresh orange juice. As a foreigner it is not advisable to drink it, you could have unpleasant reaction! Drink only bottled water, so as not to ruin your stay in the bathroom of the hotel, it is not worthwhile! Avoid street food, if you are not used to it.
In the square you will find lots of dancing and street artists. There are snake charmers, water vendors, traditionally dressed in very colorful and unusual conic red hats, which are essentially conic wire structures covered with woolly pom poms. During a trip to Tangier with my girlfriends we stopped by the side of the road between Tangier and Asilas and took some funny pictures wearing these hats! I bought a red one, generating lots of laughs.
It is very nice to sit on the first floor of a bar or restaurant on the square at sunset time, you will see the transformation of it! It is magical and joyful!
The souk starts from the square. There are lots of shops in the narrow streets around the square. Walk close the walls or the side of the streets so that the bicycles and motor bikes don’t hurt you. The streets are very narrow, chaotic and full of people. Take a map of the city with you (or use google maps). I always get lost. Live the fascinating atmosphere of the place, stop and sit in a bar and observe the life and the culture of this incredible place.
You can go to Café des Epices, which is in a small square (75, Derb Rahba Lakdima). Here you can drink the famous and lovely Moroccan mint tea and eat some local specialities. I have eaten there several times, with no problems. You can sit and enjoy the lively Moroccan way of living! If is sunny they will provide you with a straw hat! They also have a good bathroom.
This square is also full of basket vendors. There is a lady that personalizes them for you. She will write your name or other things you may desire on the basket. Every trip I sit in this cafe waiting for her to finish the huge number of pieces that I order. We discovered her with my brother. When you are sitting in front of her you can see only her eyes, since she is completely covered. One year we decided to give personalised baskets as Christmas presents. I gave her a long list of names. She worked hours only for us.
They are always two of them sitting there doing this work, which I have not found in other parts of Morocco. She is most friendly, which is why I always return to her. The first time I asked the other one to make some things for me. After all the work we gave her, she wouldn’t give us even a cent of discount, so I don’t go to her any longer. The baskets are around 15 to 20 dollars each, depending on the size.
Before you order something always establish the price. This is the first rule in markets and bazaars.
On another trip with my dear friend Carola, between the two of us we emptied her stall. We also took some bulky baskets. She was working for the whole day. We returned in a tuc tuc that could barely carry all of what we bought. The crazy old man driving it took his vehicle down the middle of the narrow alleys of the souk, creating chaos as we passed. The vendors started desperately moving their merchandise and tables. On one corner we nearly took a bird cage with us!
I recommend that you visit Marrakech during October and November. The weather is very nice, the sun still strong after the summer, and there should be a nice breeze. It is fresh during the night and a temperature of 25 to 27 degrees centigrade during the day time. Really pleasant. In March and April the temperatures are similar. Together with Christmas and New Year this is when there are high season prices in the hotels.
As you walk through the narrow streets and alleys you can see through the beautifully crafted wood doors incredible residences, gardens and interiors, each one different to the other. Some magic, some from a Thousand and one nights. They make your imagination fly!
In the Medina, the old part of the city, you will find old palaces and traditional Moroccan villas, many beautifully restored. There are anonymous facades which hide incredible interiors.
The riad is the Arabic way of living. All the rooms are around patios, which have plants or fountains or both. Today many have been modernized so you have a balance of old and new. Many have an interesting history, maybe hiding secrets. Lots of them are magical and beautiful. It stimulates the imagination and the senses. Today Marrakech has hundreds of riads – around the 3,000 in the Medina, many of them turned into boutique hotels. You can choose among this big variety on the Internet, depending on your needs and expectations.
Majorelle Gardens and YSL Museum
Jacques Majorelle (1886-1962) was a French orientalist painter, and son of the famous art nouveau furniture designer, Louis Majorelle. Majorelle arrived in Morocco in 1917 for health reasons, invited by the French Resident-General, Marshal Lyautey. Majorelle fell in love with Marrakech like Yves Saint Laurent many years later. In 1923 he decided to live there, buying a vast palm grove, that would become the Jardin Majorelle we know today.
In 1931 Majorelle commissioned the architect Paul Sinoir to build an artist’s studio in Art Deco style. Its walls were painted in Blue Majorelle. Around it he designed a beautiful garden, which was one of the most important of the world. Composed of exotic plants and rare species collected in his travels. He opened his garden to the public in 1947, but after his death in 1962 it fell into abandon.
In 1980 Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent bought the Jardin Majorelle, saving it from real estate developers. Since then the garden has been restored and a lot of new plants have been added (around 300 species) some like the bougainvillea appear in the embroidery of his collections. The garden was a very big inspiration of colours for him! He was considered the Matisse of fashion.
In Majorelle’s studio there is now a museum of Berber culture. There is a Boutique with selected, beautiful things, a nice café where you can relax and a book store.
After the death of YSL in 2008, Pierre Bergé donated the Jardin Majorelle to the Fondation Pierre Bergé -Yves St Laurent, which was established at that time. A memorial to the French fashion designer was built in the garden.
The Jardin de Majorelle and now the new Museum Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech are the most visited places in Morocco. My recommendation is to go one hour and a half before the places close. It is the best time to visit. There are long queues to get in from early in the morning and during the day. The hours of the gardens are different of the ones of the museum, so be careful if you wish to combine both in one visit.
The gardens are open from 8.00 to 17.30 from 1 October to April and from 8.00 to 18.00 for the rest of the year. During the month of Ramadan the gardens are open from 9.00 to 17.00. The museum is open every day from 10 am to 6 pm except Wednesdays.
Next to the gardens, the museum Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech was open in 2017 (there is a second one in Paris). The first exhibition of the museum YSL Marrakech was dedicated to Jacques Majorelle (1886-1962), his passion for Morocco inspired him and YSL. The exhibition Jacques Majorelle Morocco included paintings of Marrakech, high Atlas Kasbahs, (painted from 1920) women and his botanical garden that he created at the beginning of 1930. It was a tribute to this orientalist painter who captured and celebrated the beauty of Morocco. Today the museum exhibits a collection of YSL’s outfits and pieces that he conserved since the beginning of his career.
Yves Saint Laurent loved Marrakech and its culture and used to say that its culture was his own. He always walked around gardens dressed in white cotton Kaftans just like a local (he used to buy them from Benjea). For more than 40 years he lived part of the time in Marrakech with Pierre Bergé, his business and sentimental partner. They met in 1958 in Paris when Yves was a designer for Dior. In 1961 they cofounded the Maison YSL. They lived in different residences until 1980 when they bought Villa Oasis (constructed on an Oasis). It was their peaceful retreat. The house was acquired with the annexed botanical gardens of Majorelle so as to avoid the construction of a hotel there. They had a house in Tangier before Marrakech.
The Villa Oasis, built in colonial style, was part for private use. however, part of the Majorelle atelier was made into an Islamic museum, open to the public, where they exhibited their personal collection of Islamic objects from the Magreb, Middle East, Asia and Africa. The collection included carpets, jewellery and textiles. Both were fascinated with Islamic art and collected the art with a lot of passion. When he was younger YSL used to go frequently to the souks to buy things, enjoy the Moroccan life in their alleys and the Jamaa El Fna square life. In 2011 the Islamic museum was closed, and the collection was put in storage. Subsequently they sold their Islamic collection, the benefits of which were used for the construction of the Museum Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, constructed beside the gardens.
When you finish visiting the museum, if you are there during lunch time, you can have a delicious lunch, try the tagines. The Moroccan menu and food are very good.
When you exit the museum, cross the street in front and see the shops! In 33 Majorelle there is a very big selection of things for the house, clothes and accessories, all of good quality. There is also a very nice bar. I mention in my shopping section about the shops that are there. Have a look! It is worthwhile.
Medina – Souk
Follow your instincts, explore the richness of an old culture, full of beauty.
Allow yourself to get lost, don’t worry! You will never work out the maze of streets that make up the Medina and souk on a short visit here. I did eventually, but only after 4 times! Anyway, remember that all the roads lead (eventually) back to Jamaa El Fna, the main square. Tip, in case you get lost: write this name on a piece of paper, together with the name of your hotel, and ask somebody how you get there.
Do not get caught up too long discussing prices in the souk. Obviously, you don’t want to be ripped off, but pay what you feel something is worth for you. Be careful, sometimes we waste precious time, that we are always short of in a trip, discussing pennies. It is not worth it.
You are in an Arabic country, don’t wonder around in a mini skirt and vest top when you are in the Medina. Although the people of Marrakech are very tolerant, respect the culture of the country. To be sure it is better to cover your shoulders and cover your knees.
Let the spirit of Marrakech reach you! Discover what lies behind hidden doors as you wander the streets, or you sit on a terrace, sipping mint tea, as the muezzin sings his call to prayer. Is so suggestive. I love to listen, it has a fascination for me.
Prepare to spend hours drinking mint tea if you buy a carpet. It is an Arabic tradition to greet you with tea or something else to drink. In Istanbul it will be apple or Turkish tea or Turkish coffee. In Damascus it was coffee with Cardamom. You could smell it along the corridors of the souk. What a pity today it is all destroyed, same as the Aleppo Souk, one of the oldest in the world. They are gone forever. Human beings are so destructive. Mint tea was offered in the bazaar in Tripoli, Libya, where I bought beautiful pieces of jewellery, dresses, objects for the house. The vendors were super friendly. During one of the trips I made there, I returned with a skin of a snake that was 6 meters long and nearly a meter wide. I had 4 handbags made with it. Ja..ja.. In the beginning, nobody wanted to make it, because the skin was dry and not very soft, so I decided to smother it with Vaseline and leave it for some weeks. After this the skin was like a glove. The market of Tripoli was full of unusual things.
Returning to the tea and the discussion about the price of a rug, as a general rule expect to pay around a third of what you’re first quoted.
Go down to Jamaa El Fna just before sunset. It is a world heritage site for a reason. Take a mint tea on a roof terrace and watch the square come to live.
If you have the possibility book a guided tour of the Medina. It is the best money you’ll spend here. Prices start from about 300 dhs for a 3-hour tour. The Medina is a working and living place. The guide will help you to make the best of it.
Inside the souk visit the Mouassine fountain.
The souk is crossed by 2 big streets, rue Mouassine and rue Semarine. Walk until you pass the Mosque, turn right and you find a little square with the fountains, from there you will get in the Souk Des Teinturies, where you can see beautiful colour tinted wool, hung outside the shops to dry. The men that dye the wool are very recognizable, because their hands and arms are tinted!
After that you can look for Dar Charifa, this very well restored house is opposite El Mouassine Mosque. Inside some of the decoration of the house is from XVI century. There is also a cultural exhibition center of local artists. You can stop for a tea or a coffee and also look around their library. (address: 8 Der Charfa, Lakbir Mouassine, Marrakech; tel +212 524426463; www.marrakech-riads.com ).
A very nice palace of the XIX century that belonged to a member of the Royal family is that of the Musée de Marrakech. The collection is nothing special, but the building has been very well restored and is a beautiful example of Moroccan architecture.
Have a look to the Madersa Ben Youssef the Coranic school of the XVI century.
Le Concerie where the skin of animals is transformed into leather. It has a terrible smell. The tourist guide will provide you with mint leaves to sniff. This is not for everybody. The work is hand made in big tanks.
Then visit il Dar El Bacha. There lived the terrible and hated Thami El Glaoui, Sultan of Marrakech and South Morocco, in the first half of the XX century. In this house he had a big harem, where he entertained his guest Winston Churchill. The decoration is heavy and the taste is not for everyone.
Hotels
In this city there are lots of hotels with lots of different prices. Check the internet for those with the prices that most suit you. You can stay in the Medina, which is the old part of the city, or in the modern part, which is just outside it. Alternatively, there is the Palmerie, which is beautiful, but have in mind you always have to take a taxi to go to the Medina.
Be sure that it has a good access for cars if you have luggage, if not it is a nightmare. Some years ago I booked to stay in a nice riad (hotel), not knowing about this problem. We were at a considerable distance from the wider streets where you can take a car. Every time we went shopping we had to hire a person with a cart to carry it back for us. It was really quite inconvenient.
There are lots of luxurious hotels and riads in Marrakech, suitable for all budgets. There are the hotel chains and the big and traditional hotels like La Mamounia, which is very famous world-wide! Lots of important and famous people have stayed there over the years. It was restored some years ago, with all modern comforts! You can go to have a drink and visit the hotel, which is part of the history of the city. Be aware that you cannot get in wearing sneakers, flip-flops etc. You need proper shoes or sandals. It is also a very nice place to have dinner or lunch, but book first.
My favorite riad of all is El Fenn (Willem the manager has a great taste for decoration). Each room is more exotic than the previous one. The food is excellent, as is the service. Willem personally looks after all of the details of the hotel, making your stay unforgettable! Have breakfast, aperitives and dinner on the terrace, with its beautiful views. Dinner can be arranged exquisitely in different parts of the hotel. The food is always excellent. The boutique of the hotel is full of temptations. (address: 2, Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian, Marrakech; tel: +212 5244 41210; el-fenn.com ).
Willem can also organise for you day visits to the desert, where you can ride camels, go on motorbikes, have great lunches in Berber tents, and participate in sporting experiences. A visit to the towns in the Atlas Mountains is well worthwhile. You can also go trekking.
You must reserve the hotel a long time in advance. It is always full or sold out for parties. I was there for one some months ago, which was amazing. We had a fantastic stay and lots of fun!
La Maison Arabe is a very nice hotel. You can get there by taxi. The restaurant is super good. Calculate 50 euros per person and don’t forget to make a reservation. Restaurant Marocain a la carte, breakfast and dinner. There is a coking workshop if you are interested in learning to cook Moroccan food. There is also a Hamman. (address: 1 Der Asshbe Bab Doukkala, Medina, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 87010; email reservation@lamaisonarabe.com ).
Villa des Orangers is very nicely decorated and well located in the Medina. It has a very good restaurant too. You can lunch or dine there. It has beautiful rooms and the decoration of the lavatories near the reception is very nice. (address: 6, Rue Sidi Mimoun, Medina, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 84638; www.villadesoranger.com ).
La Sultana is a luxurious hotel that has a very nice decoration and is the only one with a big pool in the Medina. (address 403, Rue de la Kasbah, Medina. Marrakech; tel +212 5243 88008; email www.lasultanamarrakech.com ).
Dar Rhizlane is out:side the Medina. This five star hotel has rooms with small gardens and is charming and with a lot of personality. (address: Rue Jnane El Harti, Hivernage, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 21303; www.dar-rhizlane.com ).
Riad Farnatchi is inside of the Medina. The riad is super luxurious and has only suites with very nice furniture and accessories from the famous designer Philippe Stark. The manager Lynn Perez is a unique person that seeks to satisfy all of the expectations of her guests. (address: 2, Derb Farnatchi, Medina, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 84910; www.riadfarnatchi.com ).
Rihad Kssour Agafay is a private club, constructed as an aristocratic residence at the end of the XV century. The building has been restored to its original splendor. It is also accessible for people that are not members. (address: 52, Sabet Graoua Ksour. Medina, Marrakech; tel +212 5 24368600; www.kssouragafay.com).
In the area of the Palmerie the hotel Jnane Tamsna is very trendy and elegant, surrounded by its own fruit and vegetable plantationare us. Its produce is used in its own kitchens. (address: Douar Abiad, la Palmeraie, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 29244; www.jnanetamsna.com ).
A hotel in the heart of Gueliz is Hotel Renaissance (address: 89 boulevard Zerktouni; tel +212(0)524337777).
Hammams
Immerse yourself in the ancient tradition of the Hammam, a beauty tradition, that is still very prevalent in many Arabic countries. Take your time and relax in one of them.
El Fenn Spa, in the El Fenn Hotel uses the excellent Botanika products, inspired by the thousand-year-old beauty rituals of Berber women, which are created with traditional ingredients including Argan oil, lavender and rose. The rich extract of Argan tree leaves adds extra anti-ageing protection. You can also buy little glass and alpaca bottles, with or without tassles, to put the Argan oil in. This makes a nice present to take back home. (address: 2, Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian, Marrakech; tel: +212 5244 41210; el-fenn.com).
Hammam Dar El Bacha is one of the historical hammams in Marrakech. It is not in great condition (address: 20، Rue Lalla Fatima Zahra, Marrakech).
The Hamman de la Maison Arabe, is in a hotel. You can use the hamman even if you are not staying there. Ask for a vigorous gommage with a kissa loofah glove, with a complete massage. Afterwards you can have a very nice lunch or dinner in the restaurant (address: 1, Derb Assehbé, Bab Doukkala, Marrakech Medina; tel +212 524387010; www.lamaisonarabe.com ).
Another interesting place to go is Hammam De la Rose (address: 130 Dar El Bach, Marrakech Medina; tel +212 524444769; www.hammamdelarose.com ).
Bains de Marrakech proposes a big variety of treatments. When you finish, you can enjoy a cocktail in the Riad Mehdi, that is in the other side of the building. (address: 2, Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou, Kasbah, Marrakech; tel +212 524381428; www.riadmehdi.net ).
The Sofitel Hotel, Marrakech has one of the best spas in the city. It is open during weekdays for everyone, but only hotel residents at weekends. They have interesting packages. (address: Rue Harroun Errachid, Hivernage, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 25600).
Hammam Ziani is recently opened near the Bahia Palace. It has very good treatments in very clean surroundings. Some of the older ones in the Medina are not so clean. Keep this in mind! (address: Rue Riad Zitoun El Jedib, Medina)
La Sultana (5 star and recently open), has several packages to offer. (address: 403 rue de la Kashbah, Medina, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 88008; www.lasultanamarrakech.com ).
Hivernage Hotel and Spa, beside the Mamounia hotel (that also has a very good and modern Spa, with hamman, swimming pool) (address: Echouhada and Rue du temple, Hivernage; +212 524424100; www.hivernage-hotel.com ).
In the treatments in the hammams they use a lot of Argan oil, which is very popular in Morocco. It is also a good souvenir to take back home.
Check on the internet that the hammam is suitable for you and when it is open. The expensive hotels have wonderful hammams. The hammams are divided, for men and women, they are 3 principal rooms, cold, warm and very hot (steam bath). Men generally wear underwear and women usually go naked. In the public ones, with a supplement you can have a massage. Take a towel and toiletries with you.
Moroccan Food
Traditional food in all the North of Africa is couscous, normally is served with broth, meat or vegetables.
Pastilla is pastry filled with a sweet and very tasty filling of very thin pieces of pigeon meat, cooked with onions and cinnamon to give it a classical Moroccan flavor.
Briouats are little triangles of pastry with different fillings. They are delicious. They contain lamb, spices, pine nuts or feta cheese and spinach. Some also prepare them with shrimp or chicken and lemon. The sweet version has nuts and honey. Lovely!
Harira is a traditional Moroccan soup, based on lentils, that can be yellow, white or brown. Some have chickpeas and can also have lamb. It is served during Ramadan when the fasting finishes and on other special social occasions.
The famous Tajine comes in many different variations. It is cooked slowly at a low temperatures in a terracotta plate with a very nice and exotic conical lid. The different types can be: chicken and salty lemon; veal and dates; lamb and pear; lamb, prunes and toasted almonds; meat with fennel and chickpeas; fish; lamb and caramelized onions. A more exotic one is the Kefta tajine, which has spicy meatballs cooked slowly in a tomato sauce and in the end they add an egg!
Combine all of the above with the classical fresh mint tea, served very theatrically from tall to small Moroccan glasses.
Eating, drinking and more
Restaurants
Terrace des Epices (Souk Cherifia) is on the rooftop of Souk Cherifia. Here you can sit in the shade, especially in a torrid summer day they will spray you with orange blossom scented water. A real treat in the heat. Try their modern twist on Moroccan Classics. From there you can find the little shops with passementerie, especially Chez Moulay Youssef El Alaoui! Go to the first floor and you will find beautiful things. (address: Sidi Abdel Aziz 15, Souk Cherifia، Marrakech; tel +212 5243 75904).
La Maison Árabe has afixed menu of 3 Courses in the Maison Árabe Hotel. (address: 1 Derb Assehbe; tel +212 524387010; www.lamaisonarabe.com ).
Le Foundouk is elegant with French-Moroccan menu. (address: Rue 34, Souk El Fassi 55, Kat Bennahid, Marrakech; tel. +212 5243 78190; www.foundouk.com ).
Restaurant Le Pavillon has beautiful French decoration. (address: 47, Derb Zaouia, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 87040)
Stylia which is a palace from the XVI century, has very good fish. (address: Rue Ksour, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 43587
Dar Yacout is an authentic Moroccan experience. (address: 79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 82929).
La Famille looks like an Ibiza beach bar, with driftwood inspired interiors, straw carpets and beautiful terrace gardens. You can enjoy special salads, quiches, juices and homemade cakes. (address: 34 Derb Jdid, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 85295).
Le Palace is good for dinner, before the Clubs and Casino in Hivernage open. They offer 2 types of dinners (French café upstairs) or downstairs a moody decadent, dining space, that is very busy popular place to start the night, before going dancing or playing the tables. (address: Avenue Echouhada, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 58902).
Amal Foundation is a woman’s foundation for hospitality skills. The women come to train as chefs. It has a nice garden where you can relax and enjoy some of the best authentic Berber cooking. (address: Rue Allal Ben Ahmed, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 46896).
Beldi Country Club. If you want to lunch and enjoy a sunny day by the pool or siesta under the olive trees, stay all day and have a barbecued fish lunch, then go to the Beldi Country Club, which is outside the Medina. It is a wonderful place to go. Walk through the scented rose garden, see the glass blowing and buy some nice things in the different boutiques that are around the garden. (address: km 6, Route de Barrage, “Cherifia”, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 83950; beldicountryclub.com).
I was there for a lunch organized by a friend for her birthday. It was set in their beautiful greenhouse, where a fantastic lunch provided and organized by the El Fenn was served (everything was delicious). There was live music. The setting is incredible. There were around 50 of us. Other areas of the club are beautifully decorated and there are various outside outdoors living rooms where you can sit and enjoy. I really like it!
L’Olivier at the Fairmont Domaine Royal Palm has lovely view of the Atlas Mountains. It is 20 minutes from Marrakech. You can sit and relax around the pool and enjoy a tuna tartare and a prawn coconut soup. (address: Km 12 Route d’Amizmiz، Marrakech; tel +212 5244 87800).
Cafés
Café des Epices is my favorite in the souk. I normally sit there for hours, watching people come and go, relaxing, enjoying good food, having a nice mint tea, a Java, and good food! There is a good bathroom and they provide nice straw hats if it is very sunny. You can buy them from the ladies in the square, as a nice present, or for you. There are also personalized straw baskets. The ladies will personalize them in minutes. In this nice square there are also very good spice and other shops. Have a look.
Grand Café de la Poste is very nice for breakfast, lunch, drinks and dinner. It is a Colonial era café (it opened in 1925).
Café Clock is the Marrakech version of the legendary Cafe Clock in Fez (home of the camel burger). You can check their agenda for story telling events, oud lessons, if you are interested in oriental dancing. Sometimes they have concerts and movies.
Casual Eats in the Medina
Nomad is a modern Moroccan bistro, dining with a view, on de Place Des Epices. Try the interesting fennel and cauliflower salad, which is a very nice combination. Try also the sardine tart, calamari in anchovy, ginger and harissa sauce. Very unusual and interesting flavors.
Le Jardin hasMoroccan classics and light bites. After dark it is one of the loveliest places, with its candle-lit courtyard.
Casual Eats outside the Medina
Le Loft (16, Rue de la Liberté) is a classic French bistro in Rue de la Liberté. It has a colonial style décor. It has pork terrines and a variety of pork charcuterie products. They have a very good value lunch menu.
La cuisine de Mona (Quartier El Ghoul) is run by a formidable Lebanese chef on a very small lovely terrace, where you can enjoy her fantastic Mezze.
Le Zinc. If you are shopping in the area of Sidi Ghanem this is the best of the area. They serve a 3-course menu. Try the grilled fish or beef stew.
Le Petit Cornichon has French bistro style classics and a good selection of wines, that you can enjoy al fresco, located in Nouvelle Ville.
+61 is run by an Australian chef who serves delicious Sydney-style food, using local ingredients. The food is innovative and fresh. It is located in Gueliz.
If you will like to have a coffee and can look interesting books you can go to the Cafe du Livre, in the courtyard of the Hotel Toulousain (address: 44 Rue Tarik ibn Ziad; tel +212 524432149).
If you are interested there is also a Marrakech Street Food Tour.
Don’t miss early evening tapas at the Jamaa el Fna’s riotous night food market. Mandy Sinclair, a Canadian, who loves Marrakech, will take you on a tour which are infused with her passion of the city. You can also book for a state-approved guide. The tour lasts around 3 hours and costs approximately 850 dirhams per person.
Night clubs
Theatro is the reputed to be the best night club in Morocco.
Lotus club is a legendary club and cabaret. You can eat on the terrace or beside the swimming pool. You need to address appropriately.
Bo Zin has luxurious ambience and very elegant decor, very good food and drinks.
Le Comptoir Darna has a lively atmosphere, belly dancers and a good disk jockey.
Raspoutine has Moulin Rouge inspired cabaret and is probably the sexiest nightspot in town.
Shopping
Morocco offers a vast selection of beautiful things to buy.
Below I mention shops that I found, and others I got to know as suggested by the Hotel El Fenn, which are very high quality and have a very good variety of merchandise.
Please note that shops generally close between 1 and 3 pm. If you start in the morning, you can have a break and have lunch in the Café de la Poste or similar establishment.
Moroccan Carpets. Women working in the carpet industry are facing changes as the popularity of the country’s carpets shows no sign of slowing down. Vintage pieces are in a very high demand, now that a limited supply is driving carpet makers and sellers to find new ways of keeping up with it.
Ismail Zarib works with his brother Soufiane, who has three shops in Marrakech, one in the center of the Medina, plus showrooms in Fatima Zahra and the Majorelle Gardens. The brothers sell their vintage carpets all over the world but started to diversity about five years ago, when they realised that demand would eventually outstrip existing stock.
Today they produce new carpets that retain an old feel and employ 1,800 women in the Beni Ourain region alone, famous for its cream and black designs. The new carpets also come in sizes that are more compatible with European rooms than the traditionally long rectangular shape of many old rugs.
“We specify some elements like colours and dimensions, but also encourage the women to put their own design into the piece just as they have always done”, says Ismael. It is a creative process, not a print and copy one! Each region of Morocco is known for a specific types of carpet design. Beni Ourain is cold and snowy, which is why wool was traditionally used. Beni Mguild rugs are famous for their red tones, whilst the carpets from Azilal are prized for the range of symbols that often tell the story of the women who made them.
Berber Jewels. For Berber women they are not just ornaments. They also serve to indicate which tribe they come from, can show-off their wealth or cultural background and can protect them from the evil eye. They have several meanings.
Girls receive jewels from their mothers until they get married. The future husband asks his mother or sisters to get jewels for his future wife. They will be part of the dowry and will be in silver, because gold brings bad luck. Very important are necklaces. The Berber woman also use bangels, earrings, broches and other silver objects. Some are in use every day, some on special occasions. You can find incredible pieces in shops and the souk, which are very nice to use in summer time. You have to bargain for them!
Very beautiful are the little bags made with colourful old fabrics. There is a big variety and they are excellent for summer time like the necklaces. Very interesting also are the leather bags, old and new, decorated with coins, metal pieces and fringes. Some are very unique pieces. The souk is full of shops that sell these things.
Look also for babouches in different colours and material and handmade sandals for 15 to 20 dollars or less. Babouches are typical hand-made Moroccan slippers. Check that they are made in leather, recently a lot of plastic ones have arrived in the souk. They come variety of colours and innumerable looks.
Shopping in the Medina – Souk
Marrakech is heaven for shoppers! I have been there many times and so have most of my girlfriends. They go there once and keep on returning. You can find an infinite selection of things for all wallets and tastes. Take your time and you will find something you like. In fact, most probably you will find lots of things you like.
There are little shops that sell the passementerie and little silk buttons that YSL used in his designs. He always looked for inspiration in his beloved Marrakech. I always return with metres of very colourful borders and tassels to put on tunics or capes. Walk around near the Terrace des Epices and you will find these kinds of little shops.
In the Medina there are several artisan boutiques, that have unique objects, that you must have!!
A small, interesting and good priced shop I recommend is Passementerie L’atrach. It specializes in the fabrication and creation of tassels and pompoms. It also has very nice silver-plated buckles. The owner is an artisan. He is very friendly and helpful. If you come with any special idea, he will make it for you. (address: 98, Rue El Mouassine, near the El Mouassine Fontaine; cell 0672581137); email latrachemid11@gmail.com).
Take a look at the creations and passementerie of Youssef El Alaoui, which has very nice things similar to that in the museum of YSL. It also has beautiful tunics and capes. Prices are reasonable. (address: 2,Souk El Kimakhine, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 40498; email yalaoui63@hotmail.com; www.myyoussef.com ).
In the Medina Topolina has very nice kaftans and shirts, designed by a French designer, who uses beautiful Vintage fabrics. (address: 134 Rue Dar El Bacha)
If you like to use capes, Marrakech is the place to find beautiful ones and in all price ranges. The materials used are very beautiful with velvet, wool, and especially the Moroccan cashmere.
Try Laly Moroccan casual clothing, which has nice Moroccan cashmere capes and other clothes. (address: 137, Dar Bacha Medina, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 28200; lalymarrakech@gmail.com).
Karim Bouriad has sequined kaftans and slippers. (address: Rue Fatima Zahra R’mila Dar El Bacha N°2 Bis, Marrakech).
Max and Jan Medina has ethnic and chic Moroccan clothes and beautiful accessories. (address: 14 Rue Amsefah, Sidi Abdelaziz, Route Sidi Abdelaziz, Marrakech).
La Maison du Caftan has a big variety of quality kaftans. (address: 65 Rue Sidi el Yamani, Marrakech)
L’ourika Caftan has traditional haute couture Morrocan kaftans. (address: 77, Daffa Warbaa-Semmarine, Marrakech).
Beldi Bladi has very nice Moroccan style clothes, adapted for European taste. (address: Rue Beni Marine, Marrakech)
Akbar delights has upmarket kaftans and things for the house (address: Bab Fteach Square, Medina, Marrakech; tel +212671661307).
Try Atelier Moro which sells kaftans, crocodile handbags and other exquisite objects. (address: 114, Place de Moussine, Marrakech).
Ahram Cuir has great leather and suede bags and clothes. (address: 1 Avenue Sidi El Yamani Derb Jdid – Laksour, Marrakech).
Kulchi has Moroccan rugs. (address: 60 Rahba derb Nkhal, Marrakech).
Les Nomades de Marrakech has rugs and carpets. (address: Bennahid N°40, Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakech).
Riad Yima is a Gift shop-cum gallery to showcase the work of the Artist Hassan Hajjiaj. He has a famous series of pop photos of Marrakech life, recycled furniture made from cans, among other things. (address: 52 Derb Aarjane Rahba lakdima Medina, Marrakech).
Palais de la Menara has antiques, furniture and jewellery. There is a mix of expensive and affordable pieces. (address: 68, rue Kechachine Semarine Marrakech).
Laurence Landon has very chic and trendy art deco inspired lighting, furnishings and mirrors. (address: Bab Ghemat, Arset Mesfioui Derb Tbib N°82, Marrakech).
Creations Chez Abdel has contemporary ceramics (address: 17, Souk des Teintuiers, Marrakech; tel +212 524 427515).
If you like to cook don’t forget to buy some spices in the market. They also make a nice present. Everyone appreciates them.
The dates are excellent. In the souk there are lots of shops that sell them and many different varieties.
Shops near YSL museum
33 Majorelle has a very interesting selection of nice things! A cleverly crafted concept shop, where you can pop in after visiting the Majorelle Gardens. You have a lot of beautiful things to discover. kaftans, designer jewellery, most of which is handcrafted locally. The prices are reasonable for the quality. (address: Rue Yves Saint Laurent)
Hadaya has a combination of clothes and accessories. It is also across the road from the Majorelle Gardens. (address: Local 8, Rue Yves St Laurent).
Heritage Berbère has very nice perfumes, candles, super nice Morrocan essence and packaging. When you get back home it will take you back to Morocco with the imagination and senses. (address: Villa Dar Sabah (close to Jardín Majorelle), av Yacoub El Mansour, Marrakech; tel +212 524308841; email heritageberbere@menara.ma; www.heritageberbere.com ).
Shopping Elsewhere
Galerie Birkmeyer has timeless classics, top quality leather coats, jackets, waistcoats, bags, belts and dresses. (address: 169-171, Rue Mohammed el Beqal, Marrakech)
Lup 31 -Ludovic Petit’s interior flagship. He works with local women, who add embroidery and texture to his designs. He also has very nice copper-thread edged ceramics. (address: 208, Rue Ibn Tofail, Marrakech; tel +212 5243 90008)
Lalla. Laetitia Trouillet started out with a market stall on Portobello Road. Now she is one of the hottest designers in Morocco. She has a collection of weekend bags, handbags, toiletry bags and clutches. (address: 35, Boulevard El Mansour Eddahbi, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 47223)
Michele Bocannier, he redesigns Moroccan sleepers, babouche, in multicolor. She also re-creates kaftans, bags and jewellery for a boho look. (address: 6 Rue des Vieux Marrakechis, Marrakech).
Visit Henry Cath, very well known for custom made lighting, lampshades, frames and mirrors. It is a very good balance between tradition and modernity. He has many beautiful pieces. (address: 139, zone industrielle Sidi Ghanem, Marrakech; tel: +212 5243 38830; www.henrycath.com ).
Magasin General, has a vast showroom of 20th century European designs, you can find everything from small purses to large pieces of furniture. (Sidi Ghanem area).
L’atelier Nihal has hand woven table linens and soft furnishings in muted tones, for minimalistic homes. (Sidi Ghanem area).
Lilah Spirit is the showroom of Parisien designer, Corinne Bensimon, that pays homage to the savoir faire of local artisans by pulling together modern Moroccan interiors. (Sidi Ghanem area).
L’orientaliste has oriental antiques, artisan creations, furniture, perfumes, paintings (address: 11 and 15 Rue de la Liberté, Marrakech; tel +212 5244 34074; l’orientaliste @gmail.com).
Scenes de lin has luxurious textiles, linen, organza etc for the house. (address: 79, Rue de la Liberté, Marrakech).
Mustapha Blaoui: in his Aladdins Cave you will find everything. It is an institution in Marrakech. Don’t miss it. You will always find something to take with you. (address: 144 Arset Aouzal Rd, Marrakech).
Bab Khemis is the place where the city’s most iconic design pieces come to retire. La Mamounia, hand me downs from couture designers come to retire. Bargain a lot and dig very dip.
Valerie Barkowski is a textile designer, where you can stop for luxury bed and bath linens. (address: N°142 Arset Aouzal Rd, Marrakech).
Loun (in the Sidi Ghanem area) has ceramics, where everything can be made to order in whatever colour you would like and any design you require.
Les Sens de Marrakech (in the Sidi Ghanem area) has cosmetic, bath and other products, that look nice and have a great smell.
Ensemble Artisanal is an artisan government shop, with fixed prices (address: Avenue Mohamed V, Marrakech).
Kif Kif by Stef is a very nice shop with jewellery, dresses and things for the house. (address: Rue el Ksour)
Miloud El Jouli has clothes of their own designs as well as copies of European designers that are very well done. (address: 6-8 Souk Smat El Marga, Marrakech; tel +212 524 426716
Kulchi has clothes and very original accessories. (address Bad Laksour, Marrakech; tel +212 62649783
Gueliz Shopping and more
The French built their own history in this city, bringing their fashion, converting and embellishing riads and arranging the parks, making a big impression on this city
Gueliz is peaceful area of the city, quite different to the labyrinth of the Medina, packed with bargains and people dressed in hooded Djellaba robs (traditional Moroccan clothes for men). This new city is another alluring Marrakech to be discovered, laid out during the French colonial period. You can mix with western people and discover fun and trendy places together. Commonly visitors are obsessed by the Medina and miss completely this interesting area of the city, which is a pity.
Take a left off Avenue Mohammed V, down an alley and you will come across a lot of boutiques and art galleries.
Visit the shop of Yahya, whose brass lamps hang in palaces all over the world (address: 61 Rue de Yougoslavie, passage Ghandouri, Magazin 49-50; tel +212 524422776).
Kenza Melehi makes exquisite, beautiful, colorful kaftans in lavish materials, which are like works of art, for famous people and royalty (address: 61 Rue de Yougoslavie, passage Ghandouri, Magazin 41; tel +212 524422641).
Place Vendome sells leatherwork, saddles, belts and suede jackets of extremely high quality (address: 141 Avenue Mohammed V; tel +212 524435263).
Atika Chaussures sells the kind of suede driving shoes popularised by Tod’s, for a fraction of the price. It has very interesting boutiques with designers that fuse London, Paris and Sahara influence in their creations.
Visit Moor, which has chic ethnic, accessories, furniture, lamps, etc. (address: 7 rue des Anciens, Gueliz).
If you are around Gueliz and want to have something to eat go to Al Fassia, where you can have a very nice tagine or another local healthy specialty.
Also in the area if you want to drink something Kechmara, cafe and restaurant with a terrace (address: 5, rue de la Liberte, Gueliz).
If you wish you can hire a personal shopper (not a guide) for a day, you can contact Laetitia Trouillet (tel +21274217228 – www.lalla.fr), that can take you to all the boutiques in town.
I want to thank Hotel El Fenn for their news, where I could find much of the shopping information that I am sharing with you. I combined this with my personal experience.
Out of Town
Lalla Takerkoust is on the banks of a lake, set against a backdrop of the beautiful Atlas Mountains. It takes around 50 or 60 minutes to reach by car from Marrakech. You can spend the day by the pool of the super nice Palais Paysan or in the Kashah Beldi, where you can have a nice picnic. You can swim or take a quad bike ride. You can also have lunch in the Capaldi hotel or in Le Flouka. It is a very nice experience
You can visit the Atlas Mountains. Make a stop at Richard Branson’s Hotel, the luxurious Kasbah Tamadot overlooking the mountains. Have a drink or lunch. The trip will take you more or less one hour from Marrakech by car.
You also can head higher up to visit the characteristic villages of Imlil and Asni. The markets are open on Saturday mornings. On Tuesdays there is a market in Tahanout.
Years ago, with my husband and my mother, during a trip to Marrakech we visited one of the colourful, chaotic markets in the Atlas Mountains. My husband got an offer to exchange me for some camels! Ja…;ja… He did not accept (was not allowed to accept!). I also remember the parking lot next to the market. It was different, in place of cars there were donkeys!
Walk around the streets and alleys of the different markets in the small towns and villages. They sell all types of merchandise. You can find beautiful things. Take your time to walk around the labyrinthine alleys, to discover treasures, to understand the Arabic culture, explore, talk with local people, live in a mixture of the past and the present. Some things have not changed that much.
After crossing the Atlas Mountains, you will see date groves. You can stop along the way in Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou (a UNESCO world heritage site). You can spend a night in a desert camp and see the sunset and the sunrise over the dunes.
My favorite desert sunrise and sunset in the desert were in Namibia (Kalahari and Sossusvlei) and the Wadi Rum in Jordan. When I was there I imagined being there with Lawrence of Arabia. It was so suggestive and beautiful. We went there for one of my birthdays and we had the great luck to have an incredible guide with us, for all our trip in beautiful Jordan. He was a student of the Jordanian Culture. It was a privilege to have him as a guide and he made us love his country.
You can make a short trip of 2 days in the desert and make a short trip to the dunes of Zagora. In 1591 the Saadits started their incursion to conquer Timbuctu and the caravans of the desert that crossed Zagora gave to this isolated place a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Today it is a commercial place. Every Wednesday and Sunday there is a very nice and animated regional market. During the year you can enjoy different festivals. You can visit the museum of traditional Arts of the Valley of Du Draa. Also, worth visits are Amezrou and Jebel Zagora. You could also stay 3 days and go to Merzouga.
If you like to have a day or more in the beach you can go to Essaouira beach on the Atlantic coast. It is famous for its azure blue paintwork. You can stay in the Villa de L ‘O or in the very nice Les Jardines de Villa Maroc.
In the Agafay Hills you can have a taste of the desert in case you don’t have time to go to the Sahara. In less than an hour you can be there, have lunch in a Berber tent at la Pause or you could spend one night in a tent the Scarabeo Camp.
In the winter you can also experience a day trip in the mountains at Oukaimeden, where you can have a very nice meal in Chez Juju or try skiing, if you wish to try the Moroccan slopes!
Another option is the Ourika Valley. On Monday morning you can visit the colorful Berber Ourika village market, or on Fridays you can visit the Nectarome gardens. Then have a very nice lunch at Bab Ourika, which has a fabulous view on the Atlas Mountains.
Hot Air Ballooning
Watch the sunrise over a desert Landscape, looking at the Atlas Mountains and Berber villages in the distance. Afterwards you can enjoy a very good Berber breakfast.