Welcome to Oman! A country that I like very much and that I have been to several times.
The first time I visited about 10 years ago, by car from Dubai, with my fun Greek friend Maria. We met in Dubai, and from there we were supposed to go together to Karachi to visit my friend Mimmo, who at that time was posted there as a consul. However, because of political problems in Pakistan at that time, we decided not to go. Instead we went by car from Dubai to Muscat!
It was really a lot of fun, to cross the desert together. We never stopped talking and we crossed the beautiful dessert very fast! At least it felt like it was fast! At one of the frontiers we were very distracted and past without obtaining some piece of paper that we were supposed to present in the next one. We made several kilometres and when we arrived there they sent us back!!!ja…ja…too much bla..bla…the trip was great, the roads very good and we arrived in beautiful Muscat.
What a nice place! Sea and the mountains. Very nice for a vacation. People are lovely, very good hotels and food! A trip that I recommend. Very different of the other places in the area. Usually the weather is very nice, apart from the summer, that is terribly hot. You can relax for some days, with both the sea and the mountains.
We passed hours in a Berber shop in the Souk. Maria is the queen of the shopping, worse than me! At lunch time we were invited to have lunch by the owner of the shop, who took us to a traditional Omani restaurant and sat us at a very big table, which, within minutes, was full of their traditional food. It was very good. There was enough for a regiment! Fortunately, his assistants were hungry and finished it all. We would not have been able to by ourselves. The assistants sat at another table, not with us, only the owner did. We had a very nice lunch and got to know a lot of their traditions. It was one of several trips I did with my friend Maria, that I thank for her friendship and the nice times we share together in different parts of the world. Let’s plan other trips together soon!
Welcome to Muscat and its recently inaugurated new airport. Visitors from most countries need a visa. Check if you need one. It is possible to obtain one on arrival, depending on what passport you have. It costs around 15 euros for European passports. Be careful about the size of your suitcases when you leave. They charged me for oversized luggage, even though it was within the weight limit. They told me that they have only a narrow conveyor taking the luggage from the check-in to the plane! This in a brand-new airport.
The country is expensive. In particular the taxis are expensive and there is no other form of transport for tourists! If you plan to visit different places you should rent a car, with or without a driver. If you go for a vacation and stay in the beach you don’t need a car.
Muscat and Salalah are the two best known places to enjoy and have a very nice vacation.
General Information
The Sultanate of Oman is located on the Eastern end of the Arabian Peninsula. It borders the United Arab Emirates (UAE) in the Northwest, Saudi Arabia in the west and Yemen in the southwest. It has 2 enclaves, the Musandam Peninsula and Madha which are separated by the UAE.
Oman has a coastline of 3,165 km that spans the Gulf of Oman in the North and the Sea of Oman (which forms part of the Arabian Sea) in the East. There are 4 UNESCO world Heritage Sites in the Sultanate of Oman.
The Capital of Oman is Muscat, the population of the country is around 4.6 million, including some 2 million expatriates. The official language is Arabic. English is widely spoken by both locals and foreigners. The country’s religion is Islam. The currency is the Rial -Biaza (1 rial = 1,000 biaza). 1 Omani Rial equates to US$ 2.6. The international dialing code is +968.
The economy of Oman is based on oil and since 1970 the country has blossomed into a modern state with an impressive infrastructure. Discoveries of gas are now being exploited.
The best time to visit Oman is from October to April. The coolest months of the year are December and January when the nights are cool and during the day temperatures rarely go above 30 degrees Celsius. From May to the September it is hot and humid. It rains rarely in the Muscat region, but is torrential when it occurs, often causing flash floods.
On the whole Oman is still very traditional, however shorts are fine in the beach, but not in the shops. Woman should wear garments that cover their shoulders and their legs to the knee. As I always say, when you visit these countries you have to respect their culture. Women should be well covered, unless you are inside the hotels. Respect their dress code. If you wear long trousers and a cotton shirt or T-shirt or a long dress (fresh for the heat in summer) you will not go wrong.
I have been to lots of Islamic countries and have never had a problem. It is embarrassing to find yourself in an uncomfortable or dangerous situation. In general, it is better not to carry around expensive watches and jewellery when you travel so as to avoid complications. During the holy month of Ramadan, it is important not to eat, smoke or drink in public.
Tour of Muscat
Make a tour to visit the city. The first place that you must see are the incredible interiors of the Grand Sultan Qaboos Mosque, which are the most beautiful of any of the mosques in the Middle East in my opinion. My other favourite mosque in the Gulf if the Sheik Zayed Mosque of Abu Dhabi. The Mosque was completed in 2001, build by the Sultan of Oman, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. Designed an Iraqi -British architect, the sandstone walls are from India, and the wood is from Burma. Inside is the largest chandelier in the world, which weights eight tons, with 1,122 lamps and Swarovski crystals. It was made in Germany. The Mehrab, where the Iman stands is made of a mosaic of eight million stones from Iran, with floral designs and calligraphy. The mosque is closed on Friday’s to non-muslims.
To visit mosques in all parts of the world the women have to be well covered, with no parts of their body showing apart from their faces. Heads should be covered with something like a scarf. If you are not correctly covered, most places will provide you with a tunic and a scarf. A few years ago I went to visit the Mosque in Abu Dhabi with a group of other women who were there, like me, for a convention that my husband was attending. They were wearing less clothes than me and I was the only one stopped! I can assure you that they could see nearly nothing of me. Who knows why! Then I could get in after pulling the fabric of my long tunic to my feet. You could see only the toes! Men have to wear trousers, no shorts allowed.
Some years ago during a trip to Greece with my adorable friend Polys his father stopped me from getting close to the Orthodox priests that came from Mount Athos to visit him on the boat in which we were traveling, because he told me that I was a temptation for the monks! Ja…ja… I was dressed in a long black dress. The other women were allowed to be around them! What an injustice!!!ja…ja…!
Returning to Muscat, the old city on the sea is very beautiful. On one side there is the sea and the other the Hajar mountains, which are very special. They change colour with the different lights of the day. They don’t have any vegetation. They are magnificent. It is very nice to drive around them and the panorama is unique. There you will find some very good hotels that you can stay at or just go for lunch or a drink! They have very good shops, with variety of things. Listen to the history of the old part of Muscat and include a visit to the splendour of the Al Alam Palace (one the Sultan’s residences, used mainly to receive foreign visitors) and the 16th century Fort of Al Jalali. You can look at the Al Mirani Fort, which is not open to the public.
Visit the Muscat Opera house, an impressive building, opened 2011, built of Italian marble and Burmese teak. It has one of the best acoustics in the world. There is a display of rare musical instruments from his Majesty the Sultans collection and a 50 ton organ.
The Muttrah Fort was reopened to the public in mid-2018, after undergoing extensive renovations. The fort is the perfect place to experience first-hand the Oman historic military architecture. The fort’s elevated position is a spectacular spot from which you can see the blue Oman sea. Located on top of a narrow rocky outcrop a few meters from the Port Sultan Qaboos (there you can see the 2 beautiful yachts of the Sultan and his family). The fort was originally built by the Portuguese in the late 1500’s.
The Traditional Muttrah Souk is worth a visit (see below some of the shops that I have visited). It is located in the port of Muscat. There is not too much to buy. You can find the Bedouin silver in the 2 or 3 shops that sell Bedouin things close to the entrance of the Souk. They are like Ali Baba caves! You need a lot of time to see their interesting selection and variety of Berber objects and lots of different Omani daggers, silver handbags and other things. Don’t forget to discuss prices!
You can buy the famous frankincense incense that they used to burn in all the Middle East for the perfume. There are also the famous Amouage perfumes. The Omani daggers are a very nice present to take back home, either in silver or other metals. They are very decorative.
Still today the locals, dressed in white tunic thawbs, wear the daggers hanging from their belts. This is different to the rest of the Middle East where the men do not use a belt on the tunic. They also wear little hats (called a kumma) with lots very fine embroidery in different colors on white or other colours. It is a similar shape to a fez, but with embroidery.
Lunch at Bait Al Luban, which is one of the finest Omani restaurants in the city. Try their eggplant clouds and Omani vegetable curry. They serve Frankincense infused water.
Shopping
The following shops you will find in the Muttrah Souk in Muscat (Corniche Road). Most of the shops are open in the morning from about 9.30/10.00 am to 1pm and from 4.00/4.30 pm to 9pm.
Silver World (Abjid trading)
Sale of Handicrafts, Omani Khanjar, Omani jewelry, silver articles, Gem stones, Pashmina (Kashmiri shawls). Very nice ethnic pieces, Tibetan and Berber jewellery, silver or not, rings and bangles (if not silver around 20 Euros) prices to be negotiated. Very nice selection of small silver or stone bags. There are very nice silver straw evening bags and a big variety of Omani daggers. They take credit Cards: Visa and Mastercard.
Address: Muttrah Souq, Corniche Road -Muscat; Email -silverworld2006@gmail.com ; Tel +968 24714373; Cell +968 99364735.
Heritage Village trading
Pashmina. Kashmir, silk, and lama wool -also sells perfumes.
It is in one of the passages. Go in the Main entrance of the Muttrah Souq, then turn right in the first passage and after some haberdashery shops, you will find the shop. It has very nice big shawls in cashmere and in llama wool! The prices are around 20 euros each for the normal pashmina size and 40 euros for big shawls.
A very nice thing to buy is perfumed oil, for burning in the house, especially the jasmine and the rose oil is so nice, with good quality and good prices. You can find the famous frankincense to burn. You can also take the different types of material burners and ask the shop assistant to explain you how to use them (you need some pieces of charcoal). It adds an exotic fragrance and sensation in your house. It is also a nice and not expensive present to take back with you. There are several of these shops in front of the shawls shop.
Email -abdulvacheri@gmail.com; Mob +96899024559.
There are several shops that sell Omani hats. It is so nice to observe the variety and the quality: some of them are entirely embroidered. Omani men wear them, together with the long white tunics. It is very nice to hang them in the house as a decoration.
The haberdashery and textile shops are very interesting, lots of very nice fabrics and borders. There is always a queue of Omani woman waiting to be served. The local women are black dressed on top but with very colorful and ornate clothes underneath. I found nice pieces to sew in my Kaftans.
Luck Silk
Has interesting velvet embroidered dresses, tunics and jackets, has a good selection and affordable prices. Also has Pashmina shawls. Don’t forget to discuss prices
Address: Shop 144, Seeb mall -tel-24420229. Second branch Cornich Muttrah tel-24711232. Email -adilmir786@gmail.com. Does not take credit cards, but he can take you to another shop to pay with them.
Kashmir International
Has very good quality of shawls, expensive, but good selection of carpets, and other things. Wholesale and retail, of Kashmiri Pashmina, Carpets, Handcrafts and Kashmiri Musars
Address: shop number 1757 near the gold Souk (It is along the same alley where you can find the other things before, near to the end); Tel -24712037; Shahnawaz mob +96895893899; Email -nawazrafiq26@gmail.com. Takes credit cards.
The better time to visit the Souk is just after 10 am, when it is not so crowded and fresher in the summer time. It reopens at 4 pm and closes at 9 pm (but at that time, not all the shops are open. It is a closed place and if is hot, it can be quite an inferno inside. Avoid the hottest hours of the day to visit it.
Hotels
There is a good variety of hotels, depending on your possibilities, some are very good. You can stay in the city, in the traditional Intercontinental or in the Westin behind the Opera house. Alternatively, you can stay by the beach at the Chedi or just out of town by a bay in the hills at the Shangri-la. My favourite is the Chedi.
The Chedi Muscat was designed in the style of traditional Omani architecture and offers views of the Gulf of Oman and the mountain ranges of Muscat. It makes for an unforgettable stay in the Arabian Peninsula. The shops in the hotel have a large variety of beautiful things, for the house and clothes. The restaurants are excellent. Try the one on the beach. The fish is fantastic! The breakfast is also very good! The service is perfect in the hotel, especially under the palm trees near the large pool by the main building.
The black pools are beautiful. The one near the spa is 90 m long.
The newly refurbished Ritz Carlton has a wonderful location and the most beautiful beach in the area with turquoise water. It is near the mountains and the sea!
Kempinsky Hotel, with its lattice roof and AL Alam Palace inspired pillars, resembling a lotus, is perfect as it sits in the swanky AL Mouj community and boasts of the largest ballroom in Oman, sprinkles with modern. Omani Art and 6 ground floor Royal Suites, with private plunge pools and access to the beach.
The Shangri-La Hotelis a little outside Muscat in the hills above a beach, going south. It consists of some 3 hotels of varying prices.
Sultanate of Oman traditional treasures
The Sultanate has a long history with silver and silverware, and you can find magnificent examples of traditional silver jewellery around the Sultanate. The designs are influenced and inspired in the region’s history. There are also more modern and contemporary styles.
The exquisite khanjar daggers, with their intricately designed silver sheaths are still today an esteemed traditional dress item.
Oman has a lot more of luxury goods, to be discovered, like rose water made from traditional distillation processes in Jabal Al Akhdar mountain villages, some of the finest Frankincense resin in the world from the Dhofar Governorate in southern Oman
One of Oman’s most precious commodities is a fragrant amber colored resin found only in the barks of trees. You can find it in the Souk AL Ahalam for around US$ 35 per kilo, for good quality pieces .
Omani perfume Amouage has quickly become very well known around the world. Visit the state of the art Amouage factory in Muscat, where the Frankincense resin is blended with red peppercorn, rosemary and nutmeg, then distilled, extracting the essence, and sent to France for blending and bottling.
Omani Cuisine
Oman has culinary influences that come from Southwest Asia in the East to Zanzibar in the West. So if you want to have a true taste of the food of Oman, make sure that you try dishes that are made with 5 ingredients:
Rose water in desserts or try rose water infused herbal tea.
Dried Lemon are known for adding a zing to a dish giving it as a strong citrus flavor. From stews and rice, to cakes and pastries. Add some dried lemon and make it flavorful, try a dried lemon juice. Make sure to add a small amount, the flavor is very strong, a lot stronger than fresh lemons.
Dates are Oman’s usual desserts. However, they work as a great ingredient for savoury dishes as well. Besides using them in desserts they can be added to chicken, or beef stew, and can also be used to create a sweet and sour condiment.
Prinid fish are tiny fish (Qashe’e) that can transform any dish into a salty, oceanic delight. In Oman they are dried and tossed on salads. You can also use them as a side dish for rice, in Biryanis and Qaboolis, or add in a tomato seafood sauce.
Cardamom is the most commonly used by the locals. This seedy, aromatic spice adds tones and flavours to any dish. It is the key ingredient in making Omani coffee (Kahwa) you can also add a few seeds in a nice mixture for cakes or breads.
Tours outside Muscat
For the traveler, the Sultanate of Oman offers a large variety of experiences, a wide variety of pristine beaches and islands, spectacular mountains, canyons and wadis. There is world-class diving, snorkeling over the coral reef and other water sports. Untouched and unspoiled are the words to use for the diving and the snorkeling. The coral reefs have only ever seen one or 2 divers a year. The size and the variety of fish is far beyond the Red Sea experience. There are not large numbers of divers at any one dive site. Divers get exactly what they are looking for, which is untouched and quality. I am not a diver, but my diving friends speak very highly of the experiences that they have had in Oman.
The fishing in Oman is spectacular, you can catch from one-pound red snappers to 50+ kg tuna. Some fish you will catch in the hundreds and others you must wait all day to get one. The fishing trips are normally half a day or full day starting early in the morning.
It is nice to make a sunset cruises, turtle, dolphin and whale watching. There are also wildlife tours in the Sultanate ‘s nature reserves and biodiversity spots. There are cultural sites including forts, ancient tombs and prehistoric cities. There are desert safaris and adventures. In fact, something for everyone!
For instance, you can take a full day tour to Nizwa from Muscat driving through the Hajar Mountains via Fanja to the old capital of Oman, Nizwa. Visit the 17 ” century fort and Souk, famous for its Bedouin silver jewellery. Proceed to the ruined village of Tanuf and Bahla and visit Jabrin, which is considered to be the most beautiful fort in Oman, with its unique ceiling paintings.
Alternatively, you could go to the Wadi Shab from Muscat stopping in Quriyat on the way. At Wadi Shab you can see a sinkhole, part of a collapsed cave, filled with brackish water. Wadi Shab is a lush oasis full of palm, mango and banana trees in the middle of a stony landscape. It is fantastic for swimming and walking, so don’t forget to take your towels and a swimsuit. It is very nice to have a picnic while you are there.
North of Muscat is the ancient city of Qalhat, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was the main port of Northern Oman from the 13th to 15th centuries. The Great Mosque was its most important edifice, which was destroyed by the Portuguese when they raided Qalhat in around 1508. In the National Museum you can see the surviving elements of decoration of the Great Mosque.
Other places to visit are the Al Hazm and Nakhal forts. From Muscat passing through the farming area of Al Batina, passing Barka, you can visit the AL Hazm Fort, which is well known for its hidden escape routes, visit Al Thowarah hot springs, the Oasis of Nakhal and visit the Fort of Nakhal, which was built 60m above the village.
There are a lot of things to do. A large variety of markets and souks. Have a nice trip! And bye…bye… see you soon somewhere else in the world