Varanasi, the Holy City of India. For Indians it is Kashi, the city of divine light.
Varanasi, which was previously known as Benares, is one of India’s seven holy cities. Varanasi is the holiest of them. All devout Hindus try to visit it at least once in their lifetime. The other 6 holy cities are Haridwar, Kanchipuram, Ujjain, Mathura, Ayodhya and Dwarka. Each of these cities is dedicated to the gods Shiva or Vishnu, some are dedicated to the both.
Varanasi is full of pilgrims, from all social situations. You see priests, gurus, beggars. Be aware that there are also dishonest people around that try to cheat the pilgrims and tourists in the middle of this enormous confusion. Beware of the pickpockets, India is full of them! Together with beggars of all sorts. There are also poor children that are deformed on purpose to get money. They move around on their hands and feet. It is terrible.
Most of the pilgrims arrive in the early morning by bus and leave late at night. Very happily they spend a lot of money. They come to receive the Darshan (vision of the divinity) and to bathe in the holy water of the Ganges. In my experience it is a very intense city, that overwhelms. Be prepared!
It is believed, that if you are cremated in Varanasi, you are released from the endless cycle of rebirth and go straight to heaven. You achieve moksha.
This City is also amongst the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with excavations indicating that it may have been inhabited since 1,800 BC. It was a successful and expanding city already 2,500 years ago when Buddha come to Sarnath to make his first sermon, which is why it is also holy for the Buddhists. Later the Muslims constantly attacked the city. Shah Jahan forbade the reconstruction of the temples and converted one into a mosque. Visit the Sarnath Museum (it is closed on Fridays).
In the evening go to the banks of the Holy Ganges, walking through the old narrow streets to get there. You will find them full of pilgrims, cows and small shops that sell ritual offers to put in the temples and use during the cremation celebration. You can see the life of the place, with religious people dressed in orange and white. In the back streets there are many little bars and restaurants. The main street is full of colorful shops loaded with all manner of goods.
You can see lots of temples while you pass, some simple and modest, some very rich. Stop and have a look in the Tulsi Manasmunda Temple. Varanasi has inspired pieces of literature, some of the most important in Indian culture. Traditional music has developed around the temples. A lot of the most famous Indian musicians come from Varanasi. During the year there are several festivals taking place there.
In the city is possible to study Hindu classics and Sanskrit, not only in the Benares Hindu University but also in different places around the city.
Varanasi – Sarees
In Varanasi you can see a rainbow of sarees. Some very colorful and simple (polyester, cotton and viscose which cost very little (200 rupees or less). Some, very precious, in silk. Varanasi is famous for its silk and the sarees can cost up to 1,000 dollars. Some of them very finely embroidered for weddings. Women look so elegant wearing them.
Some years ago, I was in a shop in Agra and I saw this beautiful saree. While I was looking at it a shop assistant approached me and asked me if I want to try it on. I said yes. He folded the 5.8 meters of fabric on to me. I have a very nice picture with me wearing the saree. I asked how much it cost, it was 3,000 dollars! I thanked him very much and swiftly took off! Ja…ja.. Over the years, I have bought lots of sarees, to make dresses (silk and organza ones), evening coats, beautiful silver and especially gold ones and beautiful embroidered tunics. Some come with incredible embroided pieces at the end of the 6 m piece to make beautiful shawls. I have a lot of them that I use for parties.
In the summer colourful tunics, of which there are many types, combined with the precious cashmere or silk shawls, make you feel like a Maharani. You can look astonishing with these pieces and don’t forget to get some of the Indian jewellery to combine with them, silver or enamel, that is so special. They work the enamel on one side of the jewel. You can use both sides of them, getting two for the price of one (see Delhi section above). I have also used the sarees to make curtains in my house! My bathroom has silk saree curtains. I bought them years ago, and they look great. My friend Daniela, that used to travel a lot with me, had some beautiful curtains made for all the windows of her house. They are very convenient and unique. You can find sarees for any price. They are also easy to transport, since they come folded in small packages.
Tour of Varanasi
During our visit to Varanasi we started with a walking tour of the backstreets and small lanes through to the river. This gave us an insight into the local way of life in this city full of pilgrims. We descended the steps of the Ghat (steps leading to the banks of the river) and boarded a boat to sail on the river during the sunset. In contrast to the early morning when the Ghats are a mass of people performing a wide variety of rituals, at sunset the main sounds are the temple bells as the priests start their preparations for the evening Aarti ceremony.
We travelled up the river to see the fires of the crematorium as the last of the cremations were performed at the Manikarnika Ghat the before the sun goes down and a few pilgrims take a final dip in the river. Whilst the city is still busy, crowded and noisy, the sunset slows and quietens life along the river. Watching the cremations take place in among the charred remains of the wood from previous cremations, the cows and the mourning friends and relations is a very emotional and moving experience.
The Aarti Ceremony, which is performed at the Dahsashwamedh Ghat, is when priests perform the ritual to put the river god to sleep and to ward off evil. It is accompanied by the hypnotic beat of drums and bells and the chanting of prayers. The ceremony is mesmerizing, ending with the release of hundreds of lamps into the waters of the Ganges. There is the constant sound of the temple bells and chanting. The noise is very loud depending on where you are seated. For me the noise and heat were too much and I left before the ceremony finished, not feeling very well.
It is better to go to Varanasi when it is not too hot since you have to walk a lot and climb lots of steps. There is much noise and a very strong smell of incense, very loud sounds of bells and music. It is a very strong and fascinating experience!
The visit will be incomplete without another trip along the river to see the Ghats at sunrise. If you are not on a tour discuss the price of the boat ride and the time it will last. If not, your trip is going to be very short and expensive! Take something warm because early it can be a little chilly. Try to be already on the boat while it is still dark to watch the sun rise and listen to the notes of the Shehnai, a flute that is played in Shiva’s temple to salute the day that starts.
This is the most auspicious time in Hinduism and people go to the river to greet the rising sun. Watching the activity from a boat, as you drift down the river, you will see a panorama of the life in the city of pilgrims. You will see lots of people taking dips in to the holy river, yogis practicing their art along the steps, men and women washing their clothes and pilgrims worshipping at shrines.
Visit the old city where you will get a fascinating insight into the rituals of Hinduism. Every temple is well attended and every street corner has roadside shrines and vendors selling garlands of orange flowers, incense sticks and other items used in worship. There are approximately 80 Ghats in the city, every one of them has its own Lingam of Shiva.
The most important Ghats to visit are Dashashwamedh Ghat, Asi Ghat, Man Mandir Ghat, which is in front of the Palace of the Maharaja of Jaipur, beside the Observatory of Jai Singh (you find a lot of observatories in Indian cities, the one in Jaipur is very impressive and incredibly precise). The Dashashwamedh Ghat is the starting point for the Brahmins who are getting prepared for the business of the day, who then go to Jalasai Ghat or Manikarnika Ghat, which is where the cremations take place. The pilgrims get in the water and present their puja, or adoration to the new day.
Varanasi – Silk
Varanasi is very famous for its silk. Baranasi brocades (pieces of sumptuous fabrics that are hand woven with shiny silk and gold threads) are particularly renowned. Originally the silks were used to dress the idols of the temples. Today they are still made as they were in the past. The Mughals loved them and used them for making their incredible clothing (you can see very nice pieces in the museum in the Jaipur Palace). If you want to see a big variety go to the Silk market, beside the Thatheri Bazaar. Have a look also at the brass bazaar, that is beside the silk one.
I would recommend Mehta International, a silk -weaving centre. They are manufactures of museum quality goods, textiles and fabrics, such as Banarasi Brocades, tapestries, sarees, shawls, scarves, bed covers, fabrics for dress curtains, and sofa covers. You can see how they weave with very old machines, that still today work.
Varanasi – Hotels
I would recommend the beautiful Taj Nadesar Palace, which has a very good service and food. You can sample life in a small Maharaja’s palace. The hotel is in the grounds of another Taj hotel and was originally a hunting lodge. When we stayed there the hotel staff were In line in the entrance to welcome us dressed in their magnificent uniforms and turbans. A small ceremony was performed for us. Around the main sitting room in the hotel you can see beautiful pieces of the famous Varanasi fabric, which are not cheap, but beautifully hand woven.
hello varanasi